Nepal 2000: Pilgrimage to Muktinath

 

 

 

 

 

For Vaishnavites (followers of the supreme god Vishnu), the Muktinath Temples in the Jhong River Valley in Mustang, central Nepal, is an especially auspicious place to change the thread. In the ancient Hindu epic Mahabharata, this place is called Salagrama, named after the fossilized ammonites (saligram in Hindi) – a group of extinct squid-like animals, the remains of which are often found in the river beds of this area, embedded in rocks. The spiral form of these ammonites have caused Vaishnavites to regard them as a sacred symbol of Vishnu’s chakra – the discus with which he destroys evil.

Since ancient times, Muktinath has housed a temple, dedicated to Vishnu. A sacred spring wells forth from among the barren rocks here, and its water is led into the temple, where it is divided into 108 fountains, 105 of which are shaped like cows’ heads, the central one and the two outermost ones shaped like mythical, elephant-like creatures. Devout Vaishnavites claim that a bath in the sacred water will cause mukti (liberation from rebirths) after death. During Janai Purnima, thousands of pilgrims crowd around the Muktinath Temples.

Buddhists claim that the Vishnu statue depicts a prominent bodhisatva, Avalokitesvara, and for this reason the temple is sacred to them, too.

 

Together with a porter, Bikash, we board a bus from Kathmandu to the city of Pokhara, and then another bus to Beni. Situated at an altitude of about 800 m, this small town is a very hot and humid place in August, and we spend an uncomfortable night in a small hotel, sweating profusely under our mosquito nets, despite being covered by only a thin sheet.

While having breakfast, we are much bothered by mosquitoes. We then head up the valley through rain, wading across small tributaries, which cross the jeep track leading to the large village Galeshwor, renowned for its great temple, dedicated to the supreme god Shiva.

The vegetation along the river is very lush, whereas the river itself is home to two birds, the blue whistling-thrush (Myophonus caeruleus) and the plumbeous redstart (Phoenicurus fuliginosus), both described in depth on the page Animals – Birds: Birds in the Indian Subcontinent.

The small village Ratopani (‘red water’) is situated at the river bank, next to a narrow, dramatic gorge, through which the river water is roaring and seething.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On our way further north, we meet a group of Hindu pilgrims, who attempt to cross a large tributary to the river. Several of the pilgrims are old and frail, and the younger members of the group must support them during the crossing.

In the bazaar village of Dana, a few of the houses are adorned with beautiful carved window frames, and a bit further on is Rupse Chara, near an impressive waterfall. The area around the village of Ghasa, at an elevation of about 2000 m, is known for its rich bird life. With a bit of luck, you are able to observe several colourful pheasants here, including monal (Lophophorus impejanus), in Nepal known as danfe (described on the page Animals – Birds: Birds in the Indian Subcontinent), cheer phesant (Catreus wallichii), and satyr tragopan (Tragopan satyra).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mountains are soaring on both sides of the river here, to the west Dhaulagiri (8167 m), the seventh-highest mountain in the world, and to the east Nilgiri (7061 m).

The landscape is now changing, becoming much drier, and near Tukche (2600 m) we enter a stony area with Himalayan cypress (Cupressus torulosa) and a white-flowered rose, Rosa sericea. We often observe large, bluish Kashmir rock agamas (Laudakia tuberculata) on the rocks. The street through the beautiful village Marpha is covered with flat stones, under which the the sewage water is running.

Tukche and Marpha are inhabited by Thakalis, a people of Tibetan origin. They are Buddhists, but their belief is strongly influenced by shamanism. The Thakalis control most of the trade in this area. Rice, barley, and industrial goods from Nepal and India is traded with wool and salt from Tibet (rock salt does not occur naturally in Nepal). Transportation usually takes place on mules or yaks. Several apple, peach, and apricot plantations have been established around the villages, and part of the harvest is utilized to make local alcohol, rakshi.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The majority of the population in Kagbeni are Buddhists, and a large, red gompa (Tibetan style Buddhist monastery) is prominent here. In the interesting old part of the village, streets are covered, and we often feel like walking through a tunnel.

From here we head east, following a very steep trail that leads up to the Jhong River Valley. Despite the sparse rainfall in this area, a large section of the northern river bank has been eroded into deep gullies. We observe a lammergeier, or bearded vulture (Gypaetus barbatus), patrolling along the gullies. This huge bird has strange feeding habits. When other vultures have cleaned a carcass of meat, it will fly high with a bone from the carcass and drop it on rocky ground, whereupon it descends to eat splintered bones and marrow.

At an altitude of c. 3550 m, we pass Khinga, a hamlet situated near a couple of small ponds, surrounded by fields and small plantations of willows (Salix) and Himalayan poplars (Populus ciliata). The trunks and larger branches of these trees are used for house construction. Further up the valley is a much larger village, Dzarkot, which has been built around the remains of an old fort, situated on a rocky promontory. Dzar means ’fort’ in Tibetan, and kot means the same in Nepali.

The last village in the Jhong River Valley is Ranipauwa (3800 m), which has sprung up here to cater for pilgrims and tourists. There is a fantastic view towards the mountains, in particular Nilgiri, Dhaulagiri, and Tukche (6920 m).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Near the Vishnu Temple is the Jvala Mai Temple. According to legend, the supreme Hindu god Brahma, on this spot, ignited rocks and water. A more scientific explanation to this miraculous phenomenon is that natural gas is seeping out of a crack in a rock, and then through water, running down the rock. Unfortunately, it is very dark in the building, and the fire is far from easy to see.