In the centre of the Annapurna Range is an alpine valley, surrounded by a circle of tall peaks, among these Annapurna I (8091 m), Gangapurna (7454 m), Glacier Dome (7193 m), Annapurna South (7219 m), Hiunchuli (6441 m), and Machhapuchhare (6993 m). The latter mountain is sacred to Hindus and may not be scaled. In Nepali, Machhapuchhare means ‘fishtail’ – a name given to this mountain in allusion to its twin peaks, which are combined by a curved ridge.
In daily speech, this valley is called Annapurna Sanctuary, although, strictly speaking, it is not a sanctuary. The valley, however, does constitute a part of the huge Annapurna Conservation Area, covering 7,629 square kilometres, in which authorities and NGO’s strive to make the locals utilize the area in a sustainable way. One result of their efforts is that hunting has largely ceased, for which reason the wildlife here is rich and varied. Conserving the forests is more difficult. The numerous small hotels in the area are urged to utilize solar heating or hydro-electricity, when heating up water, and to use kerosene when cooking, but during periods of political instability, the import of kerosene from India often comes to a halt, forcing the locals to cut trees for firewood.
Annapurna Sanctuary is drained by a single river, the Modi Khola, running north-south, roaring down a deep gorge between the peaks of Machhapuchhare and Hiunchuli. Over a stretch of only c. 50 kilometres, this river is passing through five vegetation zones, from alpine to almost tropical, before joining the larger Kali Gandaki River.
In this densely populated area, most of the forest has been cleared to construct terraced fields, but to fulfil people’s need for firewood, plantations have been established, mostly consisting of chir pines (Pinus roxburghii), but also Schima wallichii, which belongs to the tea family. In Nepali, the latter is called chilaune, which means ’to itch’. Beneath the bark, mature trees have a layer of hairs, which irritate the skin. The toxic bark of this species can be used when fishing. The bark is chopped up and sprinkled into the water, anaesthetizing the fish, which float to the surface. Near villages, you often see a species of coral tree, Erythrina stricta, which, in March-April, displays a profusion of coral-red flowers, in which various bird species feed, such as jungle myna (Acridotheres fuscus), red-whiskered bulbul (Pycnonotus jocosus), black drongo (Dicrurus macrocercus), and ring-necked parakeet (Psittacula krameri).
Along the trail, I encounter various bushes. Woodfordia fruticosa, of the loosestrife family, has pretty orange flowers. Its leaves and flowers are utilized for dyeing – the flowers yield a red dye, the leaves yellow. Callicarpa macrophylla, of the vervain family, has beautiful clusters of small, violet flowers, whereas Senna floribunda (also called Cassia floribunda), of the sub-family Caesalpinioideae, has larger, yellow flowers. (A picture of Callicarpa macrophylla is found on this website, see Plant hunting in the Himalaya – Rainy season in Nepal.) Members of the genera Melastoma and Osbeckia, of the melastoma family, with two and seven Himalayan species, respectively, all have showy reddish-violet flowers. Spanish flag (Lantana camara) was introduced as an ornamental from America, but has become a serious pest in many lower valleys of the Himalaya, as it is able to form large, impenetrable scrubs, expelling native species.
In subtropical valleys of the Himalaya, the acanthus family is conspicuous, comprising at least 28 genera. Among encountered species were the ubiquitous Barleria cristata, Justicia adhatoda, and Asystasia macrocarpa. The nettle family, too, contains many genera. Besides Himalayan nettle (Urtica ardens) – which is quite similar to the European common nettle (Urtica dioica) – you often observe Girardinia diversifolia, which you will quickly learn to avoid, as it has a very powerful sting. The leaf shape of this species is quite variable, but mostly it has three large lobes. (Read more about this species on this website, see Traditional medicine – Girardinia.) Wet rocks are often covered in Pilea umbrosa or Elatostema sessile, both belonging to the same family, but without stinging hairs.
Cleared areas, which lie fallow, are often invaded by a large fern, Gleichenia gigantea, which forms large growths. Various weeds grow along the edge of terraced fields, e.g. the invasive goat-weed (Ageratum conyzoides), a reddish-brown composite, Crassocephalum crepidioides, a tiny St. John’s-wort, Hypericum japonicum, and a low, creeping knotweed, Polygonum capitata, with globular inflorescences. (Read more about goat-weed on this website, see Nature: Invasive species).
Another chotara tree is bel (Aegle marmelos), of the citrus family, with large edible fruits, which are also utilized as traditional medicine for treatment of e.g. diarrhoea and dysentery. An extract from its root and bark is used for fever. From the wood, which is very hard, various items are made, e.g. wheel hubs. The plant is sacred to Hindus, its leaves often presented as an offering to the god Shiva. Among the Newar people of Nepal, it is customary that small girls are ‘married’ to a fruit from the bel tree. This fruit is regarded as a symbol of Shiva’s son Kumar, and the ‘marriage’ ceremony is similar to a genuine marriage. This marriage cannot be annulled, but this does not prevent the girl from marrying a ‘real’ man. The original reason for this remarkable custom was that, according to ancient Hindu tradition, a widow was supposed to commit suicide in a terrible ritual, sati, during which she would throw herself into her husband’s funeral pyre. A Newar widow, however, did not have to perform this act, as her first husband, Kumar-bel, was still alive!
Other species are also planted, e.g. a tree of the myrtle family, rose apple (Eugenia jambos), locally called jamun. On its shiny leaves are numerous transparent dots, causing locals to use them as a remedy for spotty skin – an excellent example of the Doctrine of Signatures! Its fruit is an edible berry. From the seeds of the butter tree (Diploknema butyracea), of the family Sapotaceae, a butter-like product, called chiuri ghee, is produced. The well-known mango tree (Mangifera indica), with delicious fruits, is also seen.
Branches of larger trees are often covered in epiphytes, such as mosses, ferns, a mistletoe, Viscum articulatum, and orchids of the genera Coelogyne and Dendrobium, which, in the Himalaya, comprises 12 and c. 26 species, respectively. The commonest species are Coelogyne nitida, Coelogyne cristata, and Dendrobium amoenum, all of which flower from March to May. A large, philodendron-like liana, Rhaphidophora decursiva, which climbs up tree trunks by means of suckers, is very common.
On the forest floor are shrubs like Dichroa febrifuga, of the hydrangea family, the bark of which is used as a febrifuge, Mussaenda roxburghii, of the coffee family, which is easily identified by its white bracts, surrounding the orange inflorescences, and Mahonia napaulensis, of the barberry family, with large, beautiful, yellow inflorescences. Herbs include e.g. Arisaema tortuosum and A. erubescens, peculiar plants of the arum family. (More about this remarkable genus is found on this website, see Plant hunting in the Himalaya – Around sacred lakes of Shiva.)
Birdlife at this altitude is abundant, comprising e.g. the gorgeous maroon oriole (Oriolus traillii), black-capped sibia (Heterophasia capistrata), and in the river brown dipper (Cinclus pallasii), which, unlike the European dipper (Cinclus cinclus), is of a uniform brown colour.
Many herbs grow on wet rocks along the streams, e.g. Platystemma violoides, of the gloxinia family, and two primroses, the violet Primula edgeworthii and the red P. geraniifolia. In cracks on sun-exposed rocks, grasses and various herbs have taken root, such as the pink Roscoea purpurea, of the ginger family, a large-leaved buttercup, Ranunculus diffusus, and hairy bergenia (Bergenia ciliata), of the saxifrage family. Kashmir rock agamas (Laudakia tuberculata) often scuttle about on the rocks. This species is blue-grey, with numerous yellow dots on the body.
At an altitude of c. 2,800 metres, the forest floor is often covered in dense growths of various species of dwarf bamboo, among others the genera Arundinaria and Thamnocalamus. Bamboo is utilized in numerous ways in the Himalaya. From split stems of dwarf bamboo baskets and mats are woven, while the larger species are used for house construction, bridges, scaffolds, etc. The thickest stems can be used as water pipes, after removing the node walls. Various bushes also grow here, e.g. a bramble with rose-red flowers, Rubus foliolosus, a yellow jasmine, Jasminum humile, and a currant with black berries, Ribes himalense. In clearings, I observe an orchid with violet-red flowers, Dactylorhiza hatagirea, a near relative of the European early marsh orchid (D. incarnata). Its tubers are much utilized in traditional medicine, and it has now become scarce due to over-collecting.
Outside the summer months, fresh vegetables are often difficult to find in rural areas of the Himalaya. A widespread method of obtaining nutrients from vegetables at times, when fresh ones are not available, is to make gundruk – fermented leaves of certain cultivated plants, e.g. cabbage, mustard, and radish, and of various wild plants, such as Arisaema utile, a buttercup, Ranunculus diffusus, and Nepalese dock (Rumex nepalensis).
Two methods are utilized to make gundruk. One is to wash the leaves and leave them to dry for a day, after which the last juice is beaten out of them. They are then stuffed firmly into a container, which is tightly closed, making it airtight. About a week later, the fermented leaves are taken out and left to dry in the sun, after which they are stored in a dry place for later use. Another method is to boil the leaves for a short time and then stuff them tightly in a container. After a short period of time, the juice is removed and boiling water added. The leaves are then left to ferment for 4-5 days, before being dried in the sun.
Gundruk can be kept for about a year. The fermented leaves emit a characteristic fragrance, and they have a unique, strong, and lovely taste – at least in my opinion.
In clearings, you find a profusion of herbs, e.g. Anemone obtusiloba, which has white or blue flowers, and the yellow Megacarpaea polyandra, of the mustard family, which can grow taller than a man. On a wet rock, I observe the rare Pycnoplinthopsis bhutanica, likewise of the mustard family. With its low growth and thick leaf rosette, it somewhat resembles a primrose.
Around 3,700 metres altitude, trees become scarce, and woody plants are mainly composed of huge shrubs of various dwarf bushes, mostly Rhododendron anthopogon and R. lepidotum, a honeysuckle, Lonicera obovate, and various species of Cotoneaster. In clearings among the bushes grow various herbs, such as a beautiful fritillary, Fritillaria cirrhosa, Arisaema propinquum, of the arum family, Morina polyphylla, which has very prickly leaves, an alp lily, Gagea longiscapa (formerly called Lloydia longiscapa), and an imposing yellow primrose, Primula sikkimensis, which grows to 90 centimetres tall.
In May, few plants are flowering at this altitude. However, a pinkish-violet primrose, Primula denticulata, is abundant. Others include a white, cushion-forming saxifrage, Saxifraga andersonii, and a cinquefoil, Potentilla argyrophylla, which occurs in several colour varieties: purplish, red, orange, and yellow. At this altitude, the commonest bird is the yellow-billed chough (Pyrrhocorax graculus). Otherwise, animal life is scarce in the valley at this time of the year. However, one day when I am resting near a small stream, a Siberian weasel (Mustela sibirica) comes tearing along the bank, stops for a few seconds to investigate me, and then disappears like lightning.